Trimmer and binder for sewing-machines.



f No. 815,428; I

- .PATNNTED MANfzo, 1906.- N HIGGINS. 'TNIMMEN AND BINDER PGN SEWING MACHINES.

i APPLICATION FILED,HTNEL1904l k- .NQ x WITNESSESL' x i y l 'INVENTOR 4 MENTS-SHEET 2. v

J-QIGGINSQ l TRIMMBVR AND `BBfDER EUR SEWING MAGHIQES.'

APPLICATION FILED JUNEVS. 19Q4.

PATENTE@ MARIN, 1906.

4` SHEETS-s115111 s...

WITNESSES: ,l

' 'Unrnn STATES PATENT Felton. j t

y JOSEPH HieeINs', or NEW roert, "N. .,v. 'minimes-"e AND' BINDER #on eswiweMAm-unee.

ting, ,trimmii-i, and binding While they are eing sewed. y

The invention consists of features which appear in .the following description, illustinted in the drawings, andwhigli are' claimed the meterials "intheclaims.l .The inventionis-illustrated in the accompanying drawings, wherein-' liea'detockand mechanism ofthe trimmer and binder: 1 Fig. 2 illustratesan end view of the same. Fig. 3 illustratese rear view yo1 theseme. VFigli illustrates the throat-plete,l

`Fremd. 16 are sectional'views .o teken on the lines 5 5 and 16,16 indicated in 4. Figs. 6 'end 14 illustrate the binder,

v the guide, and knife, showinv' the relative po- 3o' ,eition of the seme. vFig. 7 s ows the inventiony applied tov another form of'a'muchine' herein the cutteris operated .by a Avertical reei-procatii'ig han. -Figs. 8 andi?, illustrate e crank for canning theseidber to reciprocate. block. 1U illustrates the goods partially cut and bound 'and a sectional view taken on line 10,-Eigr6. Figs-L 1 1 yillustrates @sectional viewcf the goods when trimmed and bound bythe mitcliine instable cam for operating thecutter. 1,5 ie a eideview riecting 'theknifedmr witli the cem. 1;,5

rig.

"specification of Letters Patient. 'Applicata-fm mea. runas, v1904.. smal 115.210.927.'

`edwin,lg-meeliines-; and it particularly relates to improvements in. themechemsm for cut- .1 3 'may Figure l. illustrates a'front view of the which `ilse operates as'thc cutterlate. Figs.l

the same, j

Iroller 15 will enteran( in the groove of the cam. When the Ylever is 9 illustrates an adjustable knife- .lig

l willen operated es a vertical trimmer. ing.' 12.1llustretes'a formofK an ad,`

of the mechanism iorcon-v is aneedle carried v Patented nieren 20,1906.

,f feedfmeclianism'the goods are icedv under,` the needle. 5

is e' cutter-supporting frame mounted on thehead 1. I

- 6, Fig. 3, is e knife-ber supported-in the said frame 5. 7 is a. reciprocating mechanism eo which is adapted to censo the knifcto .reci recate. It consists of a cam 8, loeeted on t .e t .shaft 9. A springprcssed crank-arm 10 has s. 'roller 1.5. The roller 15 is moved back and forth.' by the operationof. the cam 8. The '65 other arm 12 of the crank is connected to a rod 13,-Wliich is in turnr connected to thev knife-bar The arms I .Gand 12 format bellcrunk." The arm 12in provided `igjith slot 26, and the rod 13 is fastened. by a pivot- Vin "7o to 'the arm 12 at enylpo'int along the slot, whereby the? emountof movement of the rod be varied and the movement of' the knife 'attached thereto'ina also be varied.. 14,'is`a lever forthrnving t ierollerv into and 75 out of contact of the' cam-surface of the cam 8. The lever lli'has @projecting piece-16, which has an inclined surface.

The crank- 'erm 10 has a projecting portion 27, `which is fede ted to be operated on` by the inclined Sr sur ace of the piece .16.- The crank 10 is ,dra-wn inward by a s ring 17,50 that the normally lie-retained 4 thrown in one direction, the crank 10 .is 85 moved out .by the inclined surface 16, climat-'- ing on the crank, and the roller 15 is lifted out.

of tliegroove, and when the roller is removed l from the groove'the crunk 10'is rturned by the operation of the spiral spring' 17, so that tli'e 9o bearing rests on the cylindrical 4portion ofthe cam at the side-ol the groove. When the mechanism-is tobe operated'by theshaft `9 .the lever 14 is thrown in the opposite direc- Y' v tion..

The arm 1S then presses upon the erm g5 10 of the crank, andthe'crank is drawn over` .until the springr 17 pulls the bearing 15 into. the grr'iove of the cam. e f I When the earn-roller is drawnlout of the `groo ve of the cam by tllejoperetion of tlielevv io ver 14, the spring 17 throws the cem-roller to fone side, turning witlivit the arm 12,'which` pulls on the link A13 and raises the knife-bar 6.

A kniie-bar', which,y is slidably mounted K inthe 'frame 5, is connected M'tothe rod-13. 1o5- The knife Sluis connected to the knife-bar4 6.

lhe knife has 'e finger 67. The throat-ber -33' operates in conjunction with the knife to' cut. .the goods. The throat-bar, -liaying the throat 34, is located in the throat-plate 3.9. 11o

The e spring-actueted slide 38. A sm il. noire 66 is termed et one point sion the iine of contact 'between 'the seid Siide en the seid throether. The finger 67 enters the hole and passes dingoneiiy .downward throu h. the hoic 6o, so se to cross just he hind tneneedie. The elise of the knife strikes the cutting edge oithe tfirost-bsr beside the nec-die. The cutting edge ci the thr'ostfber is within one' sixty-fourth of an inch, Greven lessroin the "noleof the needle in the throsir ber 33.

The cutting; side 68 of the throetbar isvor tieni end entends downward in e plane peral- U icl to the needie. The vertice-l cent-rel line the mechanism for sewing goods end the trim nier injeirceedingiy close proximity to each other eind ents what is known es chewing et the e: oi the goods when the goods is tnri'ied. more or less she'rpiy during the operetion of the rnechine.

The needie moves in e vertical direction in the manner common .in this art, end the tlnoet neeesserilj-,f vertical. The knife being loceted et 'the side oitho said throat ond in ex eeedingly ciose proximity thereto for the purpose shove stated, the cutting wail or'snrieee ci the throat-plete verticei.

To the supporting-herne 5 is attached the freine i9 JforA the binder. The binder-freine i9, carried hy n rod 2), is pressed downward hyss iringZi.. fling S2 is attached tothe bar 20. he sp'ring'Ql presses .between the guidingfren1e 88 and the ing 82. The frame 19 and the her 2,0 is lifted by the oem 22, which may be turned esto engage with the lug S2. This raises the binder :muy from theJ work. A hinder-rod is located in and "uided by the freine The lng 83 is etteolied to the rod 28. The rod is pressed downward by n iight spring 2B, which is located between the lug S3 end the freine i9. The hinder 24 is ies-tened. the inder-hiock 25, located on the end ci the hinder-rod 28. rihe hinder hss n siiostentieliy seini-nniiiilar o ening 91 through which the 'binding motorie is drown hy theieeder oi the n'iechine. The opening 90 iocsted jest in front of the needle. The or: vid with e. .iin i, which exd e iittle ahead of the 'The iin 8l forms n. i o gnnrd'to the `goods to in cutting the minding einen@ motorini. t is necessary for this work to cause the knife to pese exceedingly close to. the hinder in order 4to trim the goods. 'l

In Figs. l1 sind 17 are iilustmted samples of ywoods which were out by a vertical cutter and en under cutter, respectivel f. ln noch cese it will be noticed. that the. hnie posses exceedingly cios-e to the binder. This could only be done by the assistance of the iin, which operates es e. guide to thc knife, es Well as e guard tothe goods. The fin is exceedingly thin end permits the knifeA to yoperate exceedingly close to the needle. A me m fied sectional view of the iin is iilustrete in Fi 10. n

n the 'form of the machine shown in Fig. 7 the knife is located on e. verticeliy-reci nocetf` ing ber el, which ioceted in the leed l.. The ber 41 is opereted by :t crank e2, which is pivoteily supported on the heed 1 and in the brecket 43. pressed nin 4, which is ede ted to enter e r ecess located in the bar 41.

ien the pin is 1n the recess of the ber, the erenk is mechanically connected to the bar. When the pin is drawn out, the bor is disconnected from the crank. The erm' 46 of the crank 42 hee a yoke 47, which embraces the imm 48, located on. the shaft 9. As the shaft turns the crnk is oscilleted end the knife-her 41 connected to the crank, isv reciprocate-d. The cem 48 is illus trcted in deteil in Fig. 12. in the seid iigure, 9 indicates the shaft on which the com 4S is loceted. oblong hole passing throngn the cani in the .direction of the exis, and it is. so positioned that when the shaft is loceted at one ond of the oblong!| opening the axis of thc cem will coincide with the exis of the shaft, und when the shaft is located et the opposite end of the o' ening the com Will he eccentric with the s mit. grecs of eccentricity, set-screws 'l0-und loch ing-screws 7i end 72 are provided. The sotscrow 7() passes through un opening in the com and through female thread locntod in the shaft. The inner end of the screw hears against the inner surfnce o f the com nndis located in the oblongr opening. The lookingscrows 71 sind '.72 screw into the cani 48 and press against the Surface of the shaft. By this means the screw 70 is adapted to set the cam so that its exis will be more or less romovedfrom the exis of the shaft, while tho lockscrews 71 and 72 lock the cam in this sot position. By thus adjusting the cuni 48 the knife 31 may be varied in the extent of its motion for heavy workthat is, for work upon materials lle-ving consderel'ilc,thick 4 ness the cem may he set so that there will he n. considerablenoeud-down motion of the hm' carrying the knife, or ii the 'Work is hghtm that is, if the materiel is thin-the ccm een he varied so es to censo only e slight'vorticel movement of the hor. :A knife-bloei; t9 is The com 48 is rovided with en.

,85 .The crenk 42 has espring- A loq I O ff In order to provide for varying doA cated above the sirppdrtedonf'tne 'ofthe The knife-block has asegmental portion 60,

Ahavingase mental slot51. .The block is attached. to tie knife bar Aby screwsfpassing lthrough the segmental 'slot 5l.. The angle offthe block, andl consequently of the knife, with ifes r ect to y'the knife-bar may be varied by gc hen the goods are turned, they are always.-

shi ting the bleek valong the..screws."l `The knife by this means oi. adjustment 'dan be readily changed from an undercutter tca'vertical cutter, and wise versa'. The knife 31 is l" attached to an alixiliary block 52, which is ivoted tozthe knife-block 49 'onv the'pin'fi. pring 53, located below thepin 54, tends to; .press'the block 52 against the screw 59, lo,-V

in. By means of the adm justabie knife-block the knifemay set so 'that `beginnt@ out the goo pivot-pin 54 untiiv 1t strikes ythe,cuttingedge from a tertical 'trimmer the goods maybe trimmed at different angles. As the'knife moves downward ina vertical direction and the edge of theknife strikes` the goods the 'knife turns about kthe ivotepin 54,"and as it i s. it moves about the,

of the tinjeat-bar.` When goodsI of different thicknesses are toto be cut, the knife has to bef adjusted at iiiierent angles in order to obv tain best resuits, which cannot bel obtained by thejmere' adjustment of the limiting-pin 1- In the form of the machine. sho

59. Whenthe binding -rnateria'l is p'aced on the upper of two pieces of goods whichA are beingsewed together, the iower piece may-be out aWa'y morepr -less 'from beneath the binder. This amount varies accordino' to the results desired yas, to appearancesanc the use to which the'goodsvare to-be put when .sewed togetherl inthe form of the inyentioniv illustrated in Fig. 7 the knife cuts thegoods'at thesides of the needle and in close proximity thereto, as in themachine shown-in Figl' .1.'

wn in Fig; 7

l the binder 24 is supported on the frame 56,

which is attached to the head 1 of the inachine.

` Fig. 10iliustratestwoipieces of goods partly 'sewed together, trimmed, 4and bound. The

binding material is fed to the'npper oi two pieces offabric which are beingsewed togather, and the binding material and the two pieces of fabric are sewedtogether at the.

. same time'that the knife operates to trim the lower of the,said two pieces ofabric.A This roduces what is cailed imitation747 of French lndinsf. ln the machines now known 1n the art it is .impcssibleto combine` these operations into a ysingle operation.A In' the making O 'French binding by the machines 110W.

known in the art 4it is necessary thatthe bind-1 ing first be placed on Whatis Vcaliedv the upper, and then the`v two pieces 4are sewed to gether and-the trimming is doneby hand. If

oo ds areto 'besewed together and trimmed gy machines now known" in the art,1t 1s necessarythat the ragged edgebesubsequently tween the said binder, and the said knife,

cutter. l

Y trimmed up byhand, becauseofithe chewing lci the edge due to the ren/iote'ness` between the position oi the knife and the needle.I By

my invention I am enabledtobiing ,theknife in close proximity tothe needle and cut the goods exactly as the needle penetrates the ods and at a pointat the side of the needle.

Jturned about the needle. The knife thus cuts the/goods substantially vat the turning point, and it'does not chew the goods, as in any machine Where the of the `needle. What l claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is as follows:

knifeis located 'ahead '1.' in a sewingnnachine the combinationv o'f a knife, means for eperating the said knife,

'abinder for directin f a hindinrY material and e sind knife meeste having a guard for t whereby a binding material may be directed to the goods while they are being -sewed and trimmed."f`

` 2. In a sewing-maohine the combination of a knife,- means 'for operating the said knife,

an oyerhanging arm, a bindeizior directing a binding-material supported by the said overhanging arm and haifinga fin-guard for the saidfknife to prevent it rom-cuttinglthe ma terial.-

- L 8. Ineu sewing-machine the combination of a knifea means for-causin thesaid knife' te operate, and an adjustale means for Y 'changing the said kfnife from an under trimmer to astraighttrimmer.

e. In asewing-niachinethe combination of a knife, a means for causing 'the said knife to operate an -adjustabie means for changing IDO thesaid knife from an. under trimmer to a.'

straight trimmer, a guard iorfthe said knife. 5. vIn a sew1ng-machine the combination 'of a knife, a means for--causin the said knife to operate and 'an ad]usta le means tor changing the said knife from an under trim mer to.A a. strai ht trimmer, an adjustable guard for the said knife.

6. In a sewingmachinethe combinatio o fa verticaily-movingrod a knife attached. to. the4 said rod, a means for-causing the said v rod to operate l'and an adjustable meansfor changing the said knife from an under trim mer to a straight trimmer.

7. In a sewing-machinethe combination of a knife-block, means formoring the. said i' knife-block, a knife pivotally connected to thev said block and-means for adjusting the said'wknie from an under cutter toa straightp8. .In a sewing-inachinethecombination of a knife-block means for moving the said knife-block, a knife. pivotally connected'to the said block and means for adjustmgthe 'said knife from-an `under cutter toa straight cutter, a guard for the said knife.l

9. In a sewing-maclnne the 'combination io -to operate en adjustable ineens for changing the seidI knife from en under `trimmer to n Straight trimmer, e binder having e iin for guiding the said knife.

ll. .in ar sewingmiecnine the combination i of e. knife-ber, e knife, ineens for operating the seid knife e knife-block for ceri" 'in f the a f seid knife end having :t curved slot for edjusting the seid knle, end e ineens Jtor coopereting withthe seid slot for securing the' i zc seid knife to tlie'seid block in its edjuc'ed .position so es to change it from en under trimmer to e sti-eight trimmer.

i2. ln e sewing-machine the coinbinetion of e throat-bor having en opening adapted to 2 5 receive e. needle, en under-cutting knife I whose edge is adapted to strike the seid oer et the side of the seid needle, ineens for open eting the sind knife.

13. In e sewing-machine the combination o or e. throeteplete, en un.(le1-eutt1ng knife Whose ed e is `edepted to strike the edge oi the seid p ete, the seid throat-plete having e throat located substantially opposite the een ter of the seid. knife, ineens for operating the 3 5 seid knife.

having en adjusting end locki 14. in e. sewing-machine the combination of e throetber lniving e throat for the needle and a vertical cutting side located along the side of the seid throat, en under cutting 4o knife edepted to act along the sideo'f the seid throat.

15. In e. eewingrnecliine the combination of c knife-bene crank for operating the seid ber, e cem for moving the s io. crank and ,5 pins, e she-ft throu lh which the seid edjnetin'- pin is passe( 'and against 1vhicli the looking-pine prese.

i5. n e sewing-n1echinc` thcoombinetion 5o of e. throat-plete having a. throat, e knife adapted to cnt et en ecute angle to the sur face of seid plete, e, Vertioel cutting-surfece vlocated et the edge end side of the seid throat. 17. ln e sewing`mechine the combination of en under-cutting knife, a. tliroet-bar heving e throet,l and cutting -\surface, the seid cutting-surface beinglocated in close proximity to, end the centerof the seid cuttingsurfa'ce being located, subst-entielly opposite 67o the seid throat.

18. In e sewingmachine thecoi'nbinetion of e needle and a knife, nieeins for o ereting the seid needle and knife, an over ringing erm, e binder supported Aon the seid over* eiegiee hanging erm end hav' U one end located et the side of the seid km e end 1n close proxunity to the seid needle, e iin located between the seid needle und the seid knife.

i9; 'in e sewing-machine the combination of e needle end e knife, means for operating the seid needle and the said knife, en overw Vhanging erin, a binder supported on thc seid overhenging erm and located et the eide of the seidkniie and havin one end located in close proximity to the sei( needle, e lin located bctween the seid knife and the seid needle, e throat plete having e throat sind verti 'el cutting-surface located side by side.

20. in e eewing-mechino the colnbinetion oi en orerlienging erin, a, knife, e needle and e binder supported by the scid overhenginer erm, ineens; ior operating the seid knife en the seid needle, the seid needle being,r located in close proximity to the side of the'eeid knife, the .seid binder being located et the eide of the said knife end one end' of the seid binder being lo'ceted in close proximity to the seid needle, e iin, the seid binder und the needle being loceted on one side of the seid lin end the knife located on the other sideoi the seid iin.

21. ln e sewingmiechine the combinotnm. of an overhenging erm, e knife, e needle und a. binder supported by the said ovcrhenging erm, e epringpressed n located between the binder and the seid knife, ineens for opereting the seid needle and the said knife.

22. in n, sewing-machine the combination of en over-hanging erm, e knife end needle supported by .the seid overhenging erin, n, spring-controlled binder supported by the said erin end in proximity to the seid knife end the seid needle, means for operating the seid needle end the seid knifeA 23. ,in e sewing-machine the combination of e needle and e knife, Ineens for opcreting the seid n end the knife, en overbmiging erin, e binder supported by the seid over@ hanging erin, o iin loceted between the said binder and the seid knife.

M. ln e eewingenmchine the combination oi e throat-ber having e throat and o. cutting odge located et the eide of the seid throat, e. needle, e knife located et en ecute langle to the surface of the tl1roetber, e 4iin located between the said knife und the seid needle, ineens for operating the said needle and the seid knife. v

25. ln e sewing-mccliine the combine tion of e throat-bar having :i throat end a. Vertical 1 cutting-surface located et tlze Side of the'sed throat, e needle, a, knife located et en acute angle to the surface of the throetlber, e. iin located between the seid knife end the seid needle, ineens for operating the seid needle and the seid'knife. g

v 26. In a sewing-machine the combination `of en overhenging erm', a binder supported 'gle to t e surface of the said throat-plate and to the said'needle, means for operating the l 'said knife and the said needle. f

35,- said needle.

, bytheisai/doverhanging arm, a needle andal -fthroateplate, a knife located at an acute angle to the said throatplate, a fin .located be- .tween the said binder and-the said knife,

y 5 vmeans for operating the said needle and the v 27 In a sewing-machine the combination lof an overhanging arrn, a binder supported throat' late, a knifei located at an acute an adapted to cut underneathfthesaid binder and at the side of andin close proximityto the said needle, means for operating the said needle andthe saidknife. l

28. In a sewing-machine the combination of a throat-barhaving a vertical throat, `a "needle, 'an under-cutting knife whose ed e is adapted to strike the said barin the direck.tion of and at the side and in close proximity 29. In sewing-machine the eombination .of a-throatlbar havinv a throat an V,undercutting knife having e astieity whoseedge is *adapted to strike the said-bar at 4the side and vtoV move. verticallyalong the side o`f vthe said throat, means for operatingthe said'knife.

' 30. In a sewin '-machine theconibination said knife,.means for-operating the said kiiife andthe/said needle,l a binder, thedeliverin 'i end orf-the said binder'located at theside' o the/'said knife and in c'lose proximity'to the "31. In a sewingmachine the combination on the overhanging arm, a needle and a means for operating the said knife.

offaknife, a need e located at the side of the binding" material are being sewedl together., 1

and the other piece of fabric is being trimmed.

32. In a sewing-machine the combinationv of n overhanging arm, a knifeand a needle, a spring-pressed binder supported on the said overhanging arm and having one end' located in 'close proximityto the needle'and on one terial may be directed to one of two piecesof fabric, while the said piece offabricand the f binding material vare being sewed together and the other piece offabric is being trimmed. 33. In a sewing-machine the combination of a throat-bar having a throat and a cutting edge'located 'at the side o f the'saidI throat, an

under-,cutting knife having elasticity,whose edge is adapted to strike t e said bar at the s1 i 34. In a sewingjnahine the combination of a throat-bar having a vertical throat and 65` a surface located at the side of the said throat and in close'proximity thereto, Tan

under-cutting knife havin elasticity whose edge isadapted to strike t 1e' said surface at "6e I e and in the direction ofthe throat, Ameans i for operating the said knife.

the side of and in the direction of the throat,

35,. AIn a sewingmachine the combi/nation ofia throat-bar having a throat, a vertical cutting-surface located at the sideofandin close proximity to thesaid throat, an underf `75 cutting knife having elasticity whose edge is adapted to strike the said surface at the side of and in the direction of the throat, a means for operating the'saidv knife.

In" testimony whereof I have 'signed 5o side ofthe said knife whereby a binding ma` naine to thissp'ecification in the two subscribingwitnesses. I'

^ vJOSEPH HIGGINS. VlitnesseszfA NELSON Ro'rns'rEIN,

ALFRED E, O WENs.

presence of 8o 

